On the road drained and unenthused from "the tire day".
Tomorrow I cross the Straits of Magellan another milestone.
Arriving in Punta Arena I find the ferry terminal with little problem, now to find a back up tube and a place to stay
When adventure riders have any bike problems in or near Punta Arena they go to the famous Carlos's Shop, so my search is on. I find the shop with little problem, but no Carlos. While riding around looking for a place to stay I go down in the mud on a side street. A local truck driver helps me pick the bike up. When I go to drive away I find I've thrown my chain, crap. He immediately offers to help. I assure him it's ok and that I have tools to take care of it. And such are the people down here always willing, if not insistent on helping. I move to the side of the street, local kids gather. It doesn't take long to reset the chain, a couple of conversations with the locals about the bike and trip and I'm on my way.
Found a place to stay near Carlos' moto shop and a supermercado. I head over to the shop, no one in sight, I'm bummed at the thought of riding without a back up tube. Just then the shop door opens, Carlos sticks his head out and motions me in. He's a great guy who loves his work and helping people out. It turns out he doesn't open the shop every day any more because he's helping the family out on their estancia, (an estancia as explained to me is a ranch only much larger) the only reason he even looked outside was he heard my bike, I've lucked out. No tire but he has a used but solid 18" tube. Yeah! At least now I have a back up tube.
Ferry terminal located, place to stay for the night and a back up tube I finally relax ready for tomorrow's crossing.
March 18th
Punta Arena to Ushuaia, crossing The Straits of Magellan.
I'm up anxious to be to the ferry early only to find my bike is totally parked in. Frustrated I wake my host, he stumbles out of his room telling me to relax I have plenty of time. He puts the water on for coffee, lays out some rolls and goes out to move the cars that have me parked in. There was no way he would let me leave without breakfast.
Great ferry operation, very professional ticket office, loading was easy and organized, plenty of tie downs, perfect. The ferry was pretty cool a combination double ended landing craft and passenger vessel. I had a delightful relaxing nap on board.
I met a Swiss couple biking from Lima to Ushuaia. I really admire the way they had their bikes set up. Whatever they needed was close at hand.
Gravel open road from Porvenir to the border, pretty easy riding, lot's of great views, I'm getting back into the ride. I passed 6 more bicyclist traveling in the wind, loaded up, all heading south. Thinking about my adventure compared to theirs, I admire them, what an awesome way to see the world, pretty darn cool.
At the border office I find that when I entered into Chile I apparently didn't get a form I needed to exit my bike on this end. The official behind the desk looks concerned and asks several times for the form I should have. He then asks where I'd been in Chile. I dig out a map and show my route. Torres del Paine, Puerto Natales, Punta Arena, he says "ok, no problem" and exits me and my bike. So so very different from central America.
Smiling, loving life, I go outside just in time to see the wind blow my bike over. Many officials appear to help me stand the bike up and direct me to a more sheltered place. The wind howls here.
Easy import into Argentina and on the pavement with the now ever present cross wind.
I run into Marco at the gas station in Rio Grande. He's the rider who gave me his extra fuel so I could ride into El Chalten a couple of weeks ago. We laugh about how gas stations are the one place adventure riders always meet. I'm thinking I should look for a place to camp. He says "push on, two hours and you're there". It's almost unbelievable two hours to Ushuaia. I'm on my way.
Beautiful ride by the ocean, lots of traffic being the weekend. The fact that there was a televised grand prix race that morning definitely has affected their driving, they are fascinated by drafting it appears. I leave the coast and head into the mountains.
Climbing, heated jacket liner on medium, grip warmers on and I'm still cold. The temp is 37F on the pass with light rain. Brrrrrrrr.
And so it comes to pass.
March 18th at 8:00pm after 14,945.8 miles, 24,387 K's, I arrive in Ushuaia the fabled end of the road south.
I pause to take the photo thinking there should be three of us here for this moment. The journey has ended differently from what any of us would have projected.
The temp is 40F with light rain. Cold tired and hungry I literally stumble onto the La Posta Hostel and a warm bed.
This is it, I'm here.
Surprisingly alone.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Punta Arena to Ushuaia
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