Riding that train to Ollantaytamba

No. 102











Loving the over head windows.

Our train ride last night was truly blog worthy, keeping in mind that we had been up since 4:00am, climbed Waynapicchu, toured Machupicchu and made it back to the train on time.
Feeling much accomplished for our day we settled in for a leisurely ride in railcar number 102 to Ollantaytamba. An hour after leaving Aguas Calientes our railcar stopped, not at a station. After sitting for a bit the conductor announced that there was a mechanical problem which the staff was attending to. Sometime later and with no further word from the conductor another engine coupled into our train and pushed us into a siding apparently in the middle of nowhere. More time passed. The conductor spoke to a group of passengers in the front of the car, the word spread that we would transfer to another train soon. People immediately began to prepare for the transfer, I told Knikki to relax, it would be awhile. We hopefully watched as four different trains passed us with no indication of slowing or stopping.
After sitting on the siding for an undetermined amount of time people began to mysteriously exit the train which finally interrupted one of Knikki and my endlessly absorbing conversations. Stepping off the the train into the dark and rainy night we followed our fellow passengers to waiting vans. At the first sign of forward motion the other van passengers began singing and clapping to the rocking of the van. Thus started our 45 minute ride from the the middle of nowhere, on the mountainous, mostly unpaved, twisty, bumpy road to Ollantaytamba
Arriving, the rail station was complete confusion. With no guest service or customer care offered we wandered off into the night and regrouped over two beers at a little restaurant next to the station.
Asking for directions to the Hotel Iskay confusion prevailed. The kids working there called someone to find out where it was, then drew us a detailed map. After considering our bewildered look, one was volunteered to walk us to the hotel. Which was good. I doubt that even with the detailed map we could have found it. Exhausted but highly pleased with our night's adventure we arrived at the hotel. We found dinner on the plaza with more beer, then crashed hard.
What an awesome day.

Location:Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytamba

Jan 3rd

It's difficult for me to wrap my arms around Machupicchu. The shear size of the of the place, the number of structures let alone the location is mind boggling.
Archeologically speaking everything here is a guess. With no known records even the purpose of the site is an educated guess and open to various interpretations. Still I can't help but wonder why and how.


A quick scramble back to the hotel and we head to the train for the trip to Ollaytaytumba. Our next adventure is about to begin.

Location:Machupicchu

Jan 2 and 3rd, 2012

We survived a quiet new years, at least for us, and on the 2nd boarded the train to Aguas Calientes the closest town to Machupicchu.





What do railroad engineers do on their vacations?

The rail cars were lovely, great windows and comfortable seats and over head windows, nice.











Our room in Aguas Calientes at the Green Nature over looked the train station and the river.






We spent our first afternoon in Aguas getting set up for touring Machpicchu the next day, touring the town and exploring the valley.

Jan 3rd.
We got a permit to hike up Wayupicchu with the early morning group so we were up early for breakfast and the bus ride up the mountain.











First views of Machupicchu







First views of the trail up Wayupicchu, stunning and steep!






An amazing trail, pretty much a set of stairs going straight up.






Ruins near the top of Wayapicchu. Not only is the trail an amazing piece of work. The structures they built on the top of this peak are incredible.



Knikki holding up the rock tunnel to the summit.



Clouds came and went.



The view down onto Machupicchu.



Relaxing on the summit.



The trail down. Just as steep.

Location:Aguas Calientes

Bike tour Dec 30th

Knikki and I signed up for a mountain bike tour for today.
Last night one of the guides came by to get our deposit and preview the tour. He explained the ride would be mostly on paved roads with some dirt road riding and that the shuttle van would be behind us all the time in case it rained or we got tired. Sounded pretty mellow but a chance to get out and see the country side so we signed up.
Our guide, Aldo and our van driver met us the hotel. It was perfect, our van turned out to be a small station wagon and Knikki and I were the only one's on the tour.


Our guide Aldo

As we left town Aldo mention just a few things about Cuzco, local histories and customs the perfect balance of information and questions.
Concerned over the Choco sandals Knikki was going to ride in Aldo quizzed her heavilywondering if she had any other shoes for the ride. Knowing Knikki I laughed to myself thinking, "if you only knew this woman like I do". She smiled to Aldo saying "I'll be ok"
Bikes set up we rode about a quarter mile of pavement then hit the dirt roads. We road through some small villages the people were shy but friendly. Aldo would check in with us from time to time, answer questions and point out anything of interest.


It appears we were riding on a large bench area just above the Sacred Valley of the Inka's. The country side was lush and green, potatoes were the crop of choice in this area.


What do bike guides from Alaska do while on vacation.....?

After riding a couple of miles Aldo ask if we want to take a road around this valley or ride single track down and push our bikes up the other side. With no hesitation we headed down the single track. Following our guide we watched as he rode up a large berm and disappeared with "whoa". A new drainage canal in our path changed our tactics momentarily to "you pass the bikes to me and I'll pass them to Knikki" soon the ride continued.


The surprise ditch

The push up wasn't bad and soon we rode to the archaeological site of Moray. If there was any down side to the tour it was that no one told us that we would have to pay our own way into the two archaeological sites on the tour. Aldo explained what the site was and that it was pretty neat. (The archaeological speculation is that the Inka's used this site to acclimatize plants brought up from lower warmer areas of their empire so they could be grown in the local area) We hemmed and hawed and decided to save what little money we did bring for the Salt Mine site coming up. We had lunch in the town square of Maras provided by the tour company
I should mention was the first time we saw the van since we started off on the tour, perfect for us.
After lunch it was all single track down to the Salt Mine site. It was great riding however I was reminded how badly my depth perception is challenged without my glasses.
The Salt Mine site was pretty cool and is still in use today by locals gathering and selling salt.


Looking down into Salt Mine site

A comfortable van ride took us back to the hotel. Knikki and I chatted and laughed thinking they took us on the wrong tour today which was perfect for us.

Location:Cuzco, Peru

Dec 27th thru 29th

The 27th is a travei day for Knikki and I, Lima to Cuzco, our base camp while in Peru. I'm quickly reminded why I like having Knikki by my side. We travel easily together, usually absorbed in one of our endless conversations which we both find so fascinating.
We check into our hotel, the Orquidea Real, which we immediately like. The rooms have the feel of old ski lodge rooms, wood floor, wood beamed ceilings, painting on the walls. Looking at the surrounding terrain it's easy to imagine them covered with snow. I tell Knikki about childhood trips to Otswego (?sp) Mich. and how there would be coffee and a newspaper in front of your room door every morning, wonder if they still do that?


Looking down towards the plaza from the Hotel Orquidea Real

Cuzco is old having it's history back to the Inka empire. It's awesome, narrow streets, big market areas, a number of town squares and street vendors selling everything from finger puppets to paintings.


Knikki gets her first lesson on a pan flute.

At this point we have no set plans while here other than a trip to Machupicchu so we roam the town, shopping, stopping for coffee and trying to find the main market. It takes us awhile but we preserver and find it.





The main market in Cuzco and Knikki with one of the vendors.


About this time my stomach tells me it didn't care for something I ate as much as I did. Not feeling any immediate distress we head back to the hotel via a route I'm sure will get us there. We walk aways looking at cathedral bell towers as land marks. My stomach continues to talk to me. We come to a point where I admit we not heading in the right direction. Knikki and I confer. Following her lead we get back to a recognizable part of town near the hotel. My stomach is speaking in load tones now as I quickly walk up the many steps to our hotel. All ends well and in time. We both retire for an afternoon nap, conversation and laughter.

Location:Lima to Cuzco

Dec. 26th

Flying out of one foreign country to another plus going to meet my lover makes made me a little anxious. So I was up early, as in a quarter till five. Walking back to my room from the shower Thomas Pickerel, scares the shit out of me by call out of the predawn Hostel darkness "you weren't going to, leave without saying good bye were you." Crap!
Thomas tracks down the night manager to call a cab while I finish packing thinking I'm ahead of schedule maybe time for some coffee. Thomas comes back saying, "the cab will be here in five minutes". Crap! No coffee. I scramble to finish packing, do a sweep of the room and hear the cab honk. A quick goodbye to my consummate host and I'm out the door laughing as Thomas mentioned he hadn't been to bed yet so it was really no problem being up to see me off.
Medellin's international airport is actually in Rio Negro about an hour drive from the Palm Tree Hostel, with no traffic my cab driver makes it in 40 minutes a still a feat considering that the drive is mostly up hill.
The morning is beautiful as the cab climbs above the city, lights sparkle, low clouds roll in and out of the valleys, lush green pastures along the road and hardly anyone else on the road. This is a beautiful part of the world.
I arrive at the airport at 6:20, check in and am offered an earlier flight I decline as I have this part of the trip timed to meet Knikki later tonight in Lima.
The Avianca airline agent checks me in then sends me to the immigration office to get may passport stamped, with the reminder it cost nothing. Quick, clean and easy I'm back at the agents window for my boarding pass he then makes it clear I need to go to the cashier window. My immediate thought is how much will this cost however the agent makes it clear they will be giving me money? Really?? With my limited Spanish I have no idea why the cashier gave me money when I showed her my ticket, I just smiled, thanked her and wondered if this was again part of a huge Columbian pro-tourist campaign.
Coffee, leisurely breakfast I watch as the sun lights up the country side around the airport. It's early, I have coffee, I'll see Knikki soon, life is so good.
And easy flight to Bogota where I change planes to Lima. Somewhere in route another first for me. I cross the equator. I have now travelled from 60 degrees north to 0 degrees latitude. Laughing because I know I'll get to do it again on the bike.
From the air it's apparent just how huge Lima is. I've read some scary accounts of certain parts of town and it seems that as we come into land we are flying over one of those parts.
I had made reservations at the Hotel Victor based on a search of TripAdvisor. They were there as advertised to meet me at the luggage claim, yeah!
The Victor is close to the airport, clean, has a great staff and cold beer.
Beer in hand a pizza ordered I arranged to go to the airport to meet Knikki when she arrives around midnight.
In the lobby at 11:30 I'm told the driver is picking some other people up but will be back in time to meet Knikki's flight....hmmmmmm. I watch the clock and begin to calculate the time to the airport. The night desk clerk sensing my concern assures me the flight is 20minutes late, I relax. With a quick drive to the airport I walk right to the custom clearance area hoping To be there as Knikki walks out. Crap! Searching the crowd of arriving passengers I spot Knikki waiting, crap again. Smiling, laughing she walks towards me we hug, kiss, she laughs some more saying she knew she would beat me there. Crap! I melt. After an entire day of being early...........Aaarrgggggggg.







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Location:Flying Medellin to Lima