Nov. 12th

Up early and rolling down the road by 7:30. Minimal traffic, cool weather, bright red sunrise, mountains shrouded in an early morning mist, breathtaking.
Freeway and toll roads to start the day, temps dropping heated grips feel pretty good right now. Leaving town along the side of the freeway venders offering hot food and coffee. As we gain altitude it gets colder, down to 46f on my bike, glad to have my fleece on, wish I had the liner in my jacket, brrrr. At the top of a pass on both sides of the road are long rows of tarp shelters with a metal stove pipe sticking out at an angle towards the road. Each one offering hot food and coffee, business looked good. Topping the pass was beautiful, mist filled valleys, tall pines, wafts of wood smoke, early morning light.
Stopped for coffee and to layer up. From this point on the temp went up, of course, soon in the 70's, of course.
Off the toll roads and on to some great mountain roads, I'm back in twisty school. Today's challenges included pot holes, missing sections of road, and unannounced road construction. Jim and Max are patient with my progress meaning they usually get a 20 minute break waiting for me at the end of a twisty section. I keep Jim's advice I mind, "don't try to keep up".
At our last break, as usually happens, we attracted a curious visitor. todays was a guy in his 30's. Through Max he gave us a little orientation of where we were and of the road a head to Oaxaca. Lots of turns, first we climb then down hill, good for moto's, he was right. I remove all the extra layers I had put on.


It seems that any turn labeled dangerous here has a cross or shrine somewhere on it, I do wonder which came first. For awhile I followed what appeared to be a mobile shrine tied to the back of a pickup complete with a generator to power the sound system. Quite ornate complete with bells, towers, and prayer offerings, I decided to slow my pace a bit, just in case.
Arrived in Oaxaca late in the afternoon, it took awhile but we found a place to stay with court yard parking.
Shower, what a great invention, clean clothes and off to the zocala to find margaritas and dinner. Lots of vendors selling all manner of goods a long the way. All kinds of musicians playing around the zocala. MUF.
Max's bike, the possessed KTM, continues to give him, therfore us problems. Tomorrow more bike repair in exotic locations.

Location:Mexico City to Oaxaca

Nov. 11th

Bike repair in exotic locations.
After a valiant effort by all for an early start the KTM gods foiled us again. Max started his bike, the possessed KTM, and immediately notice the little timing window in engine case was bouncing around like it shouldn't. After inspection and analysis Jim devised a quick fix and within an hour we were on our way.


Father son bike repair, in exotic places.

After some guidance from a new friend in the hotel parking lot we were on our way, the plan avoid Mexico City and head towards Oaxaca.
Beautiful ride again through the Mexico high country, wild flowers, stunning views and nice cool weather. Motorcycle touring as it should be.




Following all the advice we received and Jim's gps we wound up in the middle of Mexico City at rush hour on a Friday. At this point it pretty much turns into a surreal dream. 4 lanes of traffic backed up as far as we can see, street vendors walking between every lane, cars and trucks switching lanes by simply getting their bumper between the bumpers of two cars in the next lane and then moving ahead as traffic would allow. The moment that sealed it for me was when standing between our lane and the next was a man apparently not selling anything, simply standing there with a hat seemly asking for hand outs. At the same time I hear the music of an organ grinder. Looking up to my right high on the retaining wall silhouetted against a grey sky was a similarly dress man turning the crank on a street organ. At this point I knew I was really tired.
We escaped at the first available exit ramp, found a bunch of cab drivers hanging out by their cabs. Jim and Max talked one into leading us to a hotel near by.
Turned out to be a nice hotel with secure parking, seems they rent a fair number of rooms by the hour. As I unloaded my bike it was interesting watching the various couples coming and going.
Wandered the streets found a great place for dinner, our host Sebastian took great care to explain the various offerings on the menu. I went with local seasoned pork, chicken and cactus tacos, a bowl of pinto beans and a beer. Excellent food all the way around. IMUF.
Back to the hotel and to sleep.

Location:M