Dec 23rd-25th

First and foremost Merry Christmas to all.

Some reflections on Columbia. As I mentioned earlier the people have been great. On the street, in the supermarket, in the restaurants they put up with and work with my limited Spanish and everyday someone somewhere says welcome to Columbia.

Driving or riding in Columbia is interesting especially in the cities. The people drive with a very different attitude than people in the US. First, they all seem to expect the unexpected, unexpected lane changes, stops in the middle of the road and occasional driving the wrong way on a oneway street. No big thing. The amazing thing is there is no road rage, they just expect it to happen and drive accordingly. Horns are used in abundance, not to signal annoyance, but most often to let other drivers know where you are or that you intend on playing through. Motorcycle drivers rule the road, lane splitting and traffic weaving are the standard not the exception, drivers drive accordingly. Secondary in the hierarchy are the cab drivers, they will yield to a motorcycle most times but little else. I would guess there are more cabs than private cars here everyone uses a cab to go anywhere. Pedestrians are at the bottom of the order and are pretty much on there own.


Cabs waiting outside the big super market in the Suramericana part of town.

Went for a haircut a day ago armed with a new Spanish phrase "make me handsome for my lover" which entertained the woman at the salon to no end. Once they understood that part they asked where I was from. "Alaska riding a moto to Argentina" as usual that started a conversation I couldn't follow other than one girl asking if I was riding a Harley Davidson. When I told her no I was riding a Kawasaki she was only slightly less impressed, I think.


Side walk cafe's are everywhere

Yesterday, looking at a map, it dawn on me how many miles have passed under the KLR's wheels. Pretty amazing, lots of great moments already. So impressed with that bike, as Denny Bousson told me " that bike will take you anywhere" and so it has. A truly great motorcycle.


Futball game at the sports complex near Suramericana.


Entrance to the stadium at the sports complex built for the South American Games.

From the time we hit Mexico we heard that the Columbian woman were the most beautiful in all the America's. My take is that they have a excellent sense of presentation.

Christmas here was, of course, different. Some houses and apartments had lights, some Christmas music, I didn't hear Felic Navidad as much as I expected. Fireworks are huge here over the Holidays. Christmas eve appears to have been the high point, fire works at all hours of the night and early morning.



Steve from England working on christmas dinner here at the Palm Tree.

Tomorrow I fly to Lima to meet up with Knikki then we'll fly up to Cuzco to check out Machu Pitcchu and the surrounding area for New Years. Jim and Max are already there having met up with Jim's wife, Max's mom, Charlotte there before Christmas. I'm looking forward to being with my lover and getting into the high country again.





Wildflowers i came across on yesterday's walk.

Hear Taos and Angel Fire have awesome snow, vid clip indicates Skagway is doing alright Crested Butte sounds a little thin. 80+ here today.

LUF YMF

Location:Medellin, Columbia. Palm Tree Hostal

Catch up blog from Nov. 23rd

Miles today 0

Lay over day in San Pedro. Our morning search for coffee and a ATM lead us to the market. Great looking fruits, vegetables and chili's. Max chatted up a couple of farmers who said they didn't use pesticides or fertilizers, no need they said. Thinking it's the rich volcanic soil that makes it work for them, neat.


Grabbed a boat ride across the lake to San Marcos. The lake has risen some 10' in the last couple of years, heavy rains and lack of earthquakes the locals say. All of the docks and most beach front buildings were underwater.


We went to find Max's recommended place for breakfast and coffee only to find it had washed away with the raising lake waters. Locals recommended the the Moonfish Cafe, it was great on all counts.


San Marcos had a great feel, laid back, a number of yoga and meditation centers.


Heard that The Blue Lily Cafe had a Central America Lonely Planet we could look at so we searched it out and did some research.


Jim and Max ventured off to explore. I went back to the Blue Lily and spent time reading relaxing and listening to various English ascents come and go. Lot's of thanksgiving planning going on here, along with a plans for a Goddess dance
Back across on the boat, Dnoz's was recommend for dinner, who knows.
No wifi found here......bummer.
Planning on an early start to hopefully avoid trucks coming down.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:San Pedro, Guatemala

A catch up blog from Nov. 22nd

Total miles since Bellingham 4717
Miles today 88.5

Left our plush digs in Huehue after a noisy night of attempted sleep. Once again Jim proved to be the master navigator and led us out of town without a hitch. Amazing in that he seemed to completely ignore the directions two people gave us.
Passing the scene of yesterday road block Jimi raised his fist into the air we are back on the road, yeah! Some of the bus drivers from the blockade recognized us giving us a wave and a blast from their horn.
We are back in the high country again today, beautiful sweeping vista's, high peaks in the distance, pine forest and the steepest hillside farming I've ever seen. Not sure of the crops other than corn yet it's all hand worked.



The first half of today's ride was 4 lane divided highway, CA 1, beautiful smooth pavement minimal traffic, temps in the 60's, great riding.
We made the turn to Lake Atitlan and we're back to a two lane road with varying surface conditions, challenges abounding.



After the above view point the road deteriorated, the turns got even tighter and we started to drop down, way down, towards the lake. About a quarter way down my rear brake quit working as I found out in the middle of turn in a sandy part of the road, crap. First gear and feathering the front brake got me through. Thinking of everything that could be wrong and all the fixes I would need to make occupied my mind for the next couple of miles. We stopped in small town to get our bearings and I gave my rear brake a quick once over. No obvious problems and I had brakes again. Jim later explained that as the rear brake fluid gets hot it thins and you lose braking. Now I know.
Arrive in San Pedro on Lake Atitlan, cruised town and found a place for the night.
All the bikes are running great. Altitude is effecting Max's and mine a touch, but nothing major. Today's high point 8000 some feet.
Time for a shower and food.
Dinner at the Budda Bar, great place, so so food, lots of English being spoken with various accents including Milwaukeezee. Packer Fans are everywhere. Felt right at home.
RMUTF-MF


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Huehuetenango to San Pedro, Guatemala

A catch up blog from Nov. 21st

Miles today 10

The plan for the day was a casual 90 mile ride to San Pedro on Lake Atitland. 5 miles out of town we hit a road block. We're told it's a nation wide bus driver strike and all the roads in Guatemala are blockaded. The best I can figure is bus driver get some financial support from the government. I do know the bus drivers were blocking the road as part of a demand for more money from the government. We made several attempts to see if they would allow us through all met with a polite but firm, no. Since the blockade was planned to last all day we decided to head back to Huehue and try again tomorrow.
Using Max's tactic of asking a cab driver to lead us to a hotel we navigated the narrow market streets to a hotel which was certainly at the top of our budget guidelines. Max negotiated a better rate and we were in.
Our lodging needs vary from person to person however the basics are
1) secure parking for the bikes. 2) three beds ideal, two big beds will do. 3) close to food and beer. 4) Internet access. This place worked well in all categories.
I showered, caught up on emails. Talked to Knikki, more snow in Haines.
Dinner in town was good. Prices higher than we were use to in Mexico.
Off to bed, trying for an early start tomorrow.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Huehuetenango aka Huehue

Dec 16-19th

On our first day at the PalmTree I get an email from Gabriel and Cynthia, it seems the KTM flu epidemic has struck again they're broke down.
We meet them at the dealer along with reconnecting with the South African riders. Everyone is hoping to get on the road as soon as possible. Parts are the biggest problem. Getting anything here, particularly this close to Christmas is a challenge, everyone is hopeful.


Christmas decorations in one of the many parks.

Max is waiting for a starter and carb parts coming from the US via UPS International, unfortunately all he can find out is that they are in Columbia, and that they tried to deliver them once. With the help of Thomas he finds out that the best guess is that they will try to deliver them on Monday. We're all hoping they get here so the shop can get to work on his bike.
Thomas as been a great tour guide and translator, hard to imagine how we would get this sorted out without him.
So here it is Monday, Jim and I waiting are for the parts, I have a nonessential replacement rear shock coming, Max is off to the doctors for an allergy test, Thomas is planning our next adventure.

Location:Medelin, Columbia

Dec. 14th

Miles today: 200+
The journey out of Cartahene was pretty much what we've come to expect when leaving large Latin America cities, long slow going, stop and go traffic with go meaning little more than walking speed. Before we left town we picked up our mandatory insurance. We considered skipping it and taking our chances. I recalled the police check point stops we've encountered before and voted strongly for insurance, possibly costing more than a police bribe but not more than two bribes or impoundment of the bikes.
Leaving we have what now seem to be mandatory, KTM challenges. Not sure if I've mentioned that since the starter in not functioning on the KTM we either find a hill to jump start it on or Jim pull starts it with his bike. In either case my role is to stop traffic and explain to curious on lookers what we are doing. To Jim and Max's credit they've got it down to an art form.
It took several hours with insurance and all but by 11:00 we are finally out of town and rolling. My compliments again to the master navigator Mr Jimi.
Almost as soon as we leave the city we begin to climb into some beautiful hill country. I smile a lot being out of city. Lush green pastures on rolling hills, nice looking small ranches, horses and cattle grazing. It still cracks me up to see a palm tree in the middle of a cow or horse pasture.
It's not much cooler in the hills bur it feels less humid and I know we're climbing. I am so looking forward to cool weather riding. I know i'm a Mountain boy at heart.
Great lunch stop, on a long hill, open air cafe fixed menu, cold ice tea.


Today's lunch stop.


Pulled in for the night in Planarto. Walked into town found an ATM and decided to try the food from a couple of street vendors. It was really good. A couple of locals chatted us up and the helped explain what different things on the cart were.
On the way back to the hotel we pick up some great looking fruit for breakfast and water for the ride
Off to bed.
We should reach Medellin tomorrow and the fabled KTM dealer, hoping.
ILUF
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPa

Location:Cartahene to Planet....... Columbia

Dec. 9 -11th

Breakfast conversations with a couple from Australia, a couple of Irish guys, a mother daughter from Spain, Alex another KLR rider on his 2nd trip, Gabriel and Cynthia, riding double up on a KTM, to Peru.
On and off tropical rains, we anchor off a palm covered island and swim and snorkel. Moving to another anchorage with light wind we motor sail.
I can best describe our boat as a floating hostel, everybody gets a space, and that space is shared.


Jim got the worst of it sharing a couch bed with 3 other people. Euro style breakfast, fresh fruits, fresh baked black bread with what you want for breakfast Fish, vegis and rice for lunches in a curry or stew. Fritz knows his guest, good food and lots of it.


Afternoon swimming and spear fishing. The Aussies get a tiger fish to throw in the lunch pot. Fritz goes spear fishing and gets stung by another tiger fish, which will require medical attention. Gabriel a doctor, Alex a med school student and Cynthia a venom research doctor search the net for treatment. Hot water soak for 90 minutes then antibiotics and wait, if you feel better your ok if not further treatment, Fritz laughs "well of course"
Cocktail hour for the kids started early. Light rain continues on and off most of the day, beautiful sunset.


Jim and I talk about plans for the KTM in Columbia. We get good solid advice from Alex, who has done the trip Columbia to Cuzco before, about motorcycle repair options and our route.


Island time, sporting my Alaska tan.


The decision is made, the KTM is going in the shop in Medelin for how long is the unknown.

Location:San Blas Islands to Cartagena, Columbia

Dec. 13th

Miles today: 0 or just about

The day starts off with me getting mad. Jim and I dropped our laundry off yesterday at the hostel desk, early in the morning with the assurance that it would be done by 5:00 in the afternoon. I want to add that i dropped mine of first by at least an hour. Stuffed in the laundry bag is various clothes and a towel all wet from the boat trip. I go by the desk around 7:00pm to pick the laundry up, not ready yet. The best I can get is that it's not folded yet and a little bit is left to dry but tomorrow it will be done. To shorten the story I go to pick the laundry up in the morning and Mr Jame's is done and neatly folded, mine Is not even started. We have to meet Fritz to off load the bikes at 7:30am so no chance to get it done. So I grab my bag knowing full well the biology experiment growing on inside, hoping for a laundry tomorrow.


Bike unloading comes off with out a hitch, many hands rolling the bikes down the same plank we used load the bikes.


We say our good byes to Fritz Tulay and Jose, great people all living their dreams.
Alex has offered to take us to the import office and walk us through the paper work. This looks easy, no lines, a few signs and air conditioning, as we find out easy does not mean fast. The entry stamp on our passports is for December of 2012, something Fritz's agent missed yesterday, so Alex takes all our passports and head across town to the passport office. We manage to hit the import office again right at their 2 hour lunch break, so we wait, eat lunch and chat. I connect again with Cynthia and Gabriel from Costa Rico, they're riding double up down to Peru on a KLR 940. Plans are made to reconnect in Cuzco for New years.
When all is said and done it's 5:00 and we opt to spend another night in Cartagena. Thanks to Alex for his efforts and assistance.
I attempt to dry off what laundry I can from the morning non laundry event with the fan in the room. We head out for dinner. Great dinner at a local place, my usual adventure in ordering something I'm not completely sure of. Turned out to be good.
We run into Fritz and his woman walking home, say thanks again tell him about the passport stamp goof ups and then good bye again.
Tomorrow insurance and the road if all goes well.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Cartagena, Columbia

Dec12th

First day in South America another milestone.
Off the boat shower and laundry are the first order of business. Fritz and Tulay are taking care of our passports and entry into the country. Tomorrow the bikes get off loaded, we import the bikes and get insurance, which is mandatory in Columbia.
We meet at Harry's Tropical Bar to reclaim our passports and say goodbye to our fellow travelers.

Location:Cartagena, Columbia

Dec. 8th

We load up the bikes in the rain, say our good byes to Capt Jack, Lorraine, the rest of the staff and head off for bike loading.


Capt. Jack's an official Latts and Atts Harbor Hangout.

We are sailing with Capf Fritz on "Fritz the Cat." our bike loading is different from what I saw yesterday. Our boat is docked at the pier with 2x8 plank between the pier and the boat. There are 3 motorcycles ahead of us, 2 KLR's and one KTM 940 Adventure. Alex riding one of KLR's rides his bike up the plank on to the deck. It took him two tries because of the steepness and slipperiness of the plank. At my riding skill level this will be a challenge. I should add that this is not a flat water harbor. So I'm thinking, 2x8 slippery plank, uphill, moving boat, well there are lots of people to help or at least cheer for my success or disaster. Captain Fritz observes the first load, recognizes the potential for disaster and dictates that all bikes will now be pushed up the plank.


Riding the plank in Portobelo

Thank you Captain Fritz you are a wise man.
Now we all talk about a wider plank, a longer plank to decrease the angle, maybe some cleats for traction but this is an adventure ride and it is what it is, an adventure.
We leave the pier and anchor in the harbor to pack away our gear, secure the bikes and meet our fellow travelers. We settle up with the Capt. for the passage, cash is preferred, of course, he clears us out of Panama with immigration.
While he's at the port captains office ashore we hear more stories of interesting border crossing in Honduras. Seems the border agents at the Honduras border set Alex and David from Arizona up for a $300.00 fine when they tried to leave the country. Alex speaks fluent Spanish and looks Latino and has made this border crossing before. He insisted to the entrance agents that they needed an import stamp for the bikes, they said no and refused to give him anything regarding import. So, as you can now imagine, when they try to leave Honduras "big problem senior, you have no import papers, $300.00 fine per bike" Alex having done this crossing before walked away and basically hides out. They wait all day while all the trucks and private vehicles clear the border then as last ones start across he and David dropped into the end of the line and rolled out of Honduras unnoticed by anyone. Apparently the confusion at the border can work both ways.
Fritz and crew come back on board, we get a safety briefing from Fritz. Fritz is from Germany, has done 93 of these trips. I immediately like the guy as I sense everyone else does. His accent plus his references to past passages keeps us all laughing.


We have lunch vegetable pasta or rice all good. The youngsters start in on their bottles of rum. Fritz watches looks at me and rolls his eyes, many visits to the leeward rail that night.
Near full moon sail following the Panama coast to the San Blas Islands.
I sit on deck looking at the moon on the ocean and marvel at my life, thankful for family, friends and my beautiful lover.
We anchor off at 11:30pm after negating a tricky lagoon entrance, bright moonlight must have helped. 5-6 boats at anchor in the lagoon, quite water, soft tropical breeze, I sleep on deck for a bit then a rain squall puts me down below to my bunk.
Good night all.

Location:Portobelo to San Blas islands

Dec.5th

Miles for today: 234
Miles from Bellingham WA:

Oat meal breakfast, not the fare we are use to from Essense, however good coffee helps. Hard rain most of the night.


Our luxury digs last night

Border crossing.4.5 hours We go it on our own till we get lost then we found a good fair handler to direct us. No matter what, there is no sense in being in a hurry, it just takes time to get through.


Panama customs and immigration station

Met Paul Donahue, he runs a moto shop in David Panama, he's from the US riding a Sazuki RS 650 down, his choice of bikes. Finding it's always good to have a contact just in case.
Finally we're done, bikes are disinfected as was Jim as he rolled through the semi truck disinfection tunnel which worked out as we rolled out into the pouring tropical rain.
Max and I get turn around at the final check point, an unsigned form,crap, because the first import agent mixed our plate numbers up. Crap, back to the customs inspector, he laughs, such is life was his message, I think. Fortunately we were on a long hill for the KLR to get started on. Talked to some truckers. Usually 24 hours for them to get through, same story you can't hurry just sit back, wait and be happy when you finally get to go.
On the highway I notice a lot more people driving and less walking or on scoters. Different from the other countries we've past through. Farms and houses are mostly well kept. Good looking pastures and grass crops, lots of sugar cane and pineapple farms. Sugar harvest is going on so more trucks on the road hauling cane. The roads are about the same as CR although we were told they would be great in Panama.


From the land of sky blue waters

Anxious to make miles we night ride again, The KTM has no tail light so I follow whatever reflecives I can see
Border crossing take it out of us. We make it to Santiago and find the first hotels we've seen in a couple of hours. Dinner and to bed.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Evita CR to Santiago Panama

Dec 4th

Miles today:150
Total miles since Bellingham: 5416

Woke up in the middle of the night to the sound of rain on the roof, yeah, this is the first rain I've heard since leaving Skagway Oct. 10th.


Soon after the sound of the rain the Howler Monkeys started in calling to one a other, best guess 3:00, not much sleep till sunrise.
Packed up, email to Knikki, as Jim says my "Knikki fix", yes I agree. Coffee, navigation meeting, another great meal.


Jimi, master navigator.

We say good byes to Nicko, Kelly, Martin, Heather and Christian, the owners and staff at Essense and we are on our way.
The KTM doesn't kick start, good thing that we're parked on a mountain. Max bump starts her and we are on our way in the rain. Cloud forest, rain forest what did we expect.
First half of the ride stayed in the rain and fog temps in the 70's. After lunch down out of the mountains to the Pacific coast. Loving my riding gear, staying dry. Now if someone finds the cure for face shield fogging.
Lot's of traffic, mountain bikes with race numbers on and a ton of cars with surf boards on the roof. Turns out there was a surf competition in the area over the weekend. No one was very sure about a bike race.
KTM runs better however we now have to bump start it or tow start it. A pain either way.


KTM devotions for mid day.

For whatever reason the KTM is now in control of the trip. It dictates wether we move or not, where we stop (on a hill preferably) and how quickly move. Hopefully the new starter and carb part will cure the problems.


Todays lunch stop with a view.

Jimi found a great place for the night, great shower, ahhhh, cooked in some kinda for backpacker freeze dried something.
We are all tired and in need a good night sleep.
Tomorrow another border crossing.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Essense Aernal to the southern pacific coast of Costa Rica

Dec 3rd

Miles today: 0

Morning nature hike with Melissa our guide and several couples from Germany, Spain and France. Nice walk through the rain forest, checked out their farm potion of the property, saw some Howler monkeys.
Our hosts Nico and Kelly did a great job building a place for travelers. Slowly they are working towards a sustainable resort.


Howler monkey

Breakfast, beautiful views, the volcano, like Denali, may or may not show herself today.
Bike repair day for Max. Starter intermediate gear is striped in a couple of places. Good news Jim finds all the broken teeth and they are not in the crankcase. Yeah.


Max in research mode

About our lodging. This place is awesome. A variety of room options from wall tents to rooms with a private bath. A vegetarian restaurant with great food and awesome views. A fun part is every dinner the guest help prepare part of the meal. Tonight we had sushi. With all the ingredients laid out we gathered around the kitchen counter, then under the guidance of Christian, the chef, we built our own sushi rolls. It was really fun as we commented on each others abilities to lay out the vege's and rice. Once we finished our creations Christian cut them up and put them on a plate, we added ginger and wasabi. Once seated we were brought salads and afterwards desert. A fun night and my compliments to all the chefs.
Exchanged email addresses with various guest and employees.
Now off to talk to my lover.

Location:Essense Aernal, lay over day

Nov. 27th

Early start turned out to be 7:00
Nickel and dimmed out of the nightmare Honduras border town, tires sprayed with supposed disinfectant for a fee, of course, another and perhaps the first real local tax and we are into Honduras itself. yeah!



Quick roadside lunch stop.


Our experiences last night drained us all of any energy we had to experience the country. In retrospect it's unfair to the people of the country to judge them by the way their border operates, reflecting on some people's US border nightmares. The three of us know getting taken was our own fault we ignored every piece of advice about border crossing we had received. Lessons learned.
9:30 We arrive at the Honduras Nicaragua border and are immediately hit by handlers. We all say, no they robbed us at the other border. They looked confused. I tell them we have a friend from Nicaragua meeting us at the boarder and he's taking care of everything. Now the look hurt but leave us alone. Leaving Honduras as quickly as possible, papers checked twice and we we're down the road the Nicaragua border station.
Mean while Jim chats up a fellow biker to get the straight scoop. In less than three hours we are out of Honduras and in Nicaragua. A new record.
I know it's our attitude, as soon as we're rolling down the road in Nicaragua we're all smiles, it just feels different here, friendly and relaxed.
With only a little adventure which Jim survived we find a great hotel in Leon near the plaza with secure bike parking. As we park our bikes in the hotel court yard group of young, as in giggly young, girls want pictures with us particularly Max, however there was one one who really wanted her picture taken with me. I must remind her of her grandfather.........in a wind blown kinda way. F....er





Leon is a beautiful old colonial city, narrow streets, lots of churches, a couple of universities and nice cafes.



There appears to be a church going on in plaza, parades, lot's of people, vendors of all kinds and music. We asked some locals they said, no, it was a typical Sunday night. Pretty cool.
Dinner and bed. Layover day planned for tomorrow.

Location:Honduran Border to Leon Nicaragua

Nov. 28th

Easy day in Leon, Nicaragua. Breakfast at Cafe Desayunoz. Great place, international atmosphere. Laundry arranged.


Leon central plaza


Did a guided historical tour of the city. Heard about the early native histories, the Spanish invasion, the various dictators, the Contras, the Sandinistas and the US's various attempt to influence the government. We walked through the largest cathedral in Leon complete with a bell tower tour.



Dinner in town, home early. On the road tomorrow.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Leon layover day

Dec. 2nd

Mayela cooks us breakfast at the restaurant, bacon, eggs, and gallo pinto.Then back to pack up. While packing up Mayela shows up to feed us some fresh Papaya. Packed and ready to go we head back to the restaurant to say our good byes to our wonderful host and there is Mayela again with fresh squeezed lemon aid for energy she says.
On the road. Leaving the low hill country we start gaining elevation towards the Cloud Forest of Costa Rica, beautiful ride. Twisty road, a couple of wind farms which means wicked cross winds, yahoo.


The country side is mostly ranch and farm land. Brahma is still the dominate cattle with scattered horse farms. There seems to be at least one Appaloosa in every herd, very patient horse people I'd say.
Nice lunch break. Jim has picked out a hostile overlooking lake Aernal and with views of the local volcano. I'm looking forward to that.
Fun road to and around the Lake. Somewhat like the pacific northwest, very green occasional wet stretches of road (rain?) low clouds, cool weather with scattered banana and palm trees. The homes along the road are nice, lots of glass with views of the lake. My bike begins to pull hard to the left as I notice the sign for Volcano Microbrewery, still to many miles to ride so I pass.



We stop for a navigational adjustment, Max shuts down his bike, as he usually does and it refuses to start.
Now to vent. Ok, here's a bike that will run fine for days then due to planetary alinement or some possible psychiatric issues decides not to start. Then, for whatever reasons, after we have all vented various personal rants and for any of the above reasons it will start and run like a champ. WTF, still venting. Today after an hour or so we bump start it and it catches.
Back on the road, twisty with awesome views of the lake Arenal lot's of restaurants advertising in English, seems to be the common traveler language here.
We've heard the road to the hostel is rough, as in 4 wheel drive rough, so with some apprehension we leave the pavement and head off. More off road adventures? Actually a pretty good gravel road with stream crossings, one lane bridges and washed out sections, glad I'm on the KLR. As the road climbs, the views get better, definitely in the cloud forest. We arrive, our hostess Heather greets us, we sign in and she brings us a beer and says "heard you had a rough day". Yeah we did, but once here we forget it for a moment. This place is truly captivating. Now for that beer. MUF


Essense Arenal



Looking for the monkeys with Heather

The owner Nicko is from Germany and raised in Spain. He feel in love with the area and noticed there were no inexpensive traveler lodging so he built one. Clean rooms, central bathroom and shower, restaurant with a vegetarian fixed meal menu.
Guest are from all over the world generally in Costa Rica for the first time.
In the middle of the night I hear the first rain I've heard since leaving AK.
IMUFSM.




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Frits and Mayela's to Essense Arenal, Costa Rica

Dec. 1st

Miles today 53
Jim and I call a beach day. Max seached out a welder for his panier frame and Bill Jones a friend of Frits and Mayela who had sailed around the world for over 12 years and rode a Norton motorcycle from Calif to Panama in 1972. Max really wants to met this guy.
Jim and I ride to Samara about 25 miles from Frits and Mayela's. Lunch on the beach then a swim.





Warm water, hot sand and a little Maytag ride in the surf. Love that salt water nasal enema.
Back to Frits and Marela's then dinner at Chuck and Marilyn's beautiful home.


Jim and Max make friends with a couple of armadillo's that frequent Chuck and Marilyn's house. Seems they really like hot dogs, a lot.
Dinner conversations touch on, the Yukon, mining boom and related issues, cruises ship tourism and life in Costa Rica.
Beer and wine flowed as did the stories. I do like Yukoners, fine people worth knowing. WIMUSM


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Frits and Mayela's near Nacoya, CR

Nov. 30th

Miles today:21.3
Total miles: 5043



Mongo's
After breakfast at Mango's bar and restaurant we split up for various shopping task. Jim and Max are looking for motor oil and headlight bulbs I'm after sunglasses and wine. Costa Rica is fairly angloized. ATM's ask if you want local currency or us dollars shops will convert prices it's all pretty easy.
Short ride today to find Frits and Mayela's place. These are friends who now live around Carcross during the summer and have places here for the winter. Jim made the connection with them last summer in Skagway, I meet them at Bruce and Hanna Schindler's Skagway wedding party.
Frits is Dutch who immigrated to the Yukon 20 years ago first running his own canoe outfitting business then working as a carpenter, cook or whatever he could do to stay in the Yukon.


Frits and Mayela
His wife, Mayela is from Costa Rica. They met down here while Frits was exploring the area, a great love story.
Their place down here is pretty neat. They have also built a small restaurant and day resort, complete with a Tilapia farm and citrus groove.



After Jim and Max finished they're oil changes and maintenance we headed out to check out to the restaurant for a dinner.
Chuck and Marilyn, from Caribou Crossing in Carcross join us for dinner. Together with Frits and Mayela they have purchased some acreage, sub divided it up, built the restaurant and set themselves up to skip the Yukon winters.....



Jim, Frits, Max at the Tilapia pond
Great dinner of fried Tilapia, stories and conversation.
Off to bed. ILUF
Tomorrow is planned to be a beach day.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Liberria to Frits and Mayela's, Costa Rica