Monday, December 19, 2011

Catch up blog from Nov. 23rd

Miles today 0

Lay over day in San Pedro. Our morning search for coffee and a ATM lead us to the market. Great looking fruits, vegetables and chili's. Max chatted up a couple of farmers who said they didn't use pesticides or fertilizers, no need they said. Thinking it's the rich volcanic soil that makes it work for them, neat.


Grabbed a boat ride across the lake to San Marcos. The lake has risen some 10' in the last couple of years, heavy rains and lack of earthquakes the locals say. All of the docks and most beach front buildings were underwater.


We went to find Max's recommended place for breakfast and coffee only to find it had washed away with the raising lake waters. Locals recommended the the Moonfish Cafe, it was great on all counts.


San Marcos had a great feel, laid back, a number of yoga and meditation centers.


Heard that The Blue Lily Cafe had a Central America Lonely Planet we could look at so we searched it out and did some research.


Jim and Max ventured off to explore. I went back to the Blue Lily and spent time reading relaxing and listening to various English ascents come and go. Lot's of thanksgiving planning going on here, along with a plans for a Goddess dance
Back across on the boat, Dnoz's was recommend for dinner, who knows.
No wifi found here......bummer.
Planning on an early start to hopefully avoid trucks coming down.



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Location:San Pedro, Guatemala

A catch up blog from Nov. 22nd

Total miles since Bellingham 4717
Miles today 88.5

Left our plush digs in Huehue after a noisy night of attempted sleep. Once again Jim proved to be the master navigator and led us out of town without a hitch. Amazing in that he seemed to completely ignore the directions two people gave us.
Passing the scene of yesterday road block Jimi raised his fist into the air we are back on the road, yeah! Some of the bus drivers from the blockade recognized us giving us a wave and a blast from their horn.
We are back in the high country again today, beautiful sweeping vista's, high peaks in the distance, pine forest and the steepest hillside farming I've ever seen. Not sure of the crops other than corn yet it's all hand worked.



The first half of today's ride was 4 lane divided highway, CA 1, beautiful smooth pavement minimal traffic, temps in the 60's, great riding.
We made the turn to Lake Atitlan and we're back to a two lane road with varying surface conditions, challenges abounding.



After the above view point the road deteriorated, the turns got even tighter and we started to drop down, way down, towards the lake. About a quarter way down my rear brake quit working as I found out in the middle of turn in a sandy part of the road, crap. First gear and feathering the front brake got me through. Thinking of everything that could be wrong and all the fixes I would need to make occupied my mind for the next couple of miles. We stopped in small town to get our bearings and I gave my rear brake a quick once over. No obvious problems and I had brakes again. Jim later explained that as the rear brake fluid gets hot it thins and you lose braking. Now I know.
Arrive in San Pedro on Lake Atitlan, cruised town and found a place for the night.
All the bikes are running great. Altitude is effecting Max's and mine a touch, but nothing major. Today's high point 8000 some feet.
Time for a shower and food.
Dinner at the Budda Bar, great place, so so food, lots of English being spoken with various accents including Milwaukeezee. Packer Fans are everywhere. Felt right at home.
RMUTF-MF


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Location:Huehuetenango to San Pedro, Guatemala

A catch up blog from Nov. 21st

Miles today 10

The plan for the day was a casual 90 mile ride to San Pedro on Lake Atitland. 5 miles out of town we hit a road block. We're told it's a nation wide bus driver strike and all the roads in Guatemala are blockaded. The best I can figure is bus driver get some financial support from the government. I do know the bus drivers were blocking the road as part of a demand for more money from the government. We made several attempts to see if they would allow us through all met with a polite but firm, no. Since the blockade was planned to last all day we decided to head back to Huehue and try again tomorrow.
Using Max's tactic of asking a cab driver to lead us to a hotel we navigated the narrow market streets to a hotel which was certainly at the top of our budget guidelines. Max negotiated a better rate and we were in.
Our lodging needs vary from person to person however the basics are
1) secure parking for the bikes. 2) three beds ideal, two big beds will do. 3) close to food and beer. 4) Internet access. This place worked well in all categories.
I showered, caught up on emails. Talked to Knikki, more snow in Haines.
Dinner in town was good. Prices higher than we were use to in Mexico.
Off to bed, trying for an early start tomorrow.


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Location:Huehuetenango aka Huehue

Dec 16-19th


On our first day at the PalmTree I get an email from Gabriel and Cynthia, it seems the KTM flu epidemic has struck again they're broke down.
We meet them at the dealer along with reconnecting with the South African riders. Everyone is hoping to get on the road as soon as possible. Parts are the biggest problem. Getting anything here, particularly this close to Christmas is a challenge, everyone is hopeful.


Christmas decorations in one of the many parks.

Max is waiting for a starter and carb parts coming from the US via UPS International, unfortunately all he can find out is that they are in Columbia, and that they tried to deliver them once. With the help of Thomas he finds out that the best guess is that they will try to deliver them on Monday. We're all hoping they get here so the shop can get to work on his bike.
Thomas as been a great tour guide and translator, hard to imagine how we would get this sorted out without him.
So here it is Monday, Jim and I waiting are for the parts, I have a nonessential replacement rear shock coming, Max is off to the doctors for an allergy test, Thomas is planning our next adventure.


Location:Medelin, Columbia

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Dec. 14th

Miles today: 200+
The journey out of Cartahene was pretty much what we've come to expect when leaving large Latin America cities, long slow going, stop and go traffic with go meaning little more than walking speed. Before we left town we picked up our mandatory insurance. We considered skipping it and taking our chances. I recalled the police check point stops we've encountered before and voted strongly for insurance, possibly costing more than a police bribe but not more than two bribes or impoundment of the bikes.
Leaving we have what now seem to be mandatory, KTM challenges. Not sure if I've mentioned that since the starter in not functioning on the KTM we either find a hill to jump start it on or Jim pull starts it with his bike. In either case my role is to stop traffic and explain to curious on lookers what we are doing. To Jim and Max's credit they've got it down to an art form.
It took several hours with insurance and all but by 11:00 we are finally out of town and rolling. My compliments again to the master navigator Mr Jimi.
Almost as soon as we leave the city we begin to climb into some beautiful hill country. I smile a lot being out of city. Lush green pastures on rolling hills, nice looking small ranches, horses and cattle grazing. It still cracks me up to see a palm tree in the middle of a cow or horse pasture.
It's not much cooler in the hills bur it feels less humid and I know we're climbing. I am so looking forward to cool weather riding. I know i'm a Mountain boy at heart.
Great lunch stop, on a long hill, open air cafe fixed menu, cold ice tea.


Today's lunch stop.


Pulled in for the night in Planarto. Walked into town found an ATM and decided to try the food from a couple of street vendors. It was really good. A couple of locals chatted us up and the helped explain what different things on the cart were.
On the way back to the hotel we pick up some great looking fruit for breakfast and water for the ride
Off to bed.
We should reach Medellin tomorrow and the fabled KTM dealer, hoping.
ILUF
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Location:Cartahene to Planet....... Columbia