Friday, November 11, 2011

Nov. 10th

After the usual wonderful breakfast at Lalo's and Gina's we finally say our good byes and headed down the road. What great host. Gina and Lola acted as guides, interpreters, travel planners, and spanish teachers.



A number of bill boards refer to the recent Pan American games held here in Guadalajara include one proclaiming "the Pole Dancing Club of the Pan American Games", a future event perhaps.
We got out of town with no problems, all the bikes are running great.
Once again we ride through areas rolling hills with trees and alpine vegetation. Temps today were in the high 60's to mid 70's, lot's of cumulus clouds, it appeared to be raining off to the east. Since leaving Skagway I've had dry roads everyday.
Just realized I rolled out of Skagway one month ago today, time really has flown. IMUF
Sounds like the skiing up north is going full tilt, not missing it yet, yet.



Road side taco lunch was good today as they all have been so far. The motorcycles tend to draw in the people. Quite a few know of Alaska and that it's a long way away and cold.
I've been impressed by the number of people who will come up to us and ask if they can help us with anything.
My spanish is slowly coming along. Max quiz's Jim and I at breakfast on words he taught us the day before, our retention could only be rated, fair.
My new phrase, bagabungo pur el mundo = traveler or vagabond of the world. One of the mechanics used the word bagabungo and would point at me then my motorcycle. This morning Gina and Lalo helped me figure out what he was saying. Best guess he was calling me a motorcycle vagabond. I've been called worst.
No Internet tonight, bummer. Girl working the desk keeps saying later, which I take to mean she'll be off work later and won't have to deal with us or the Internet.



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Location:Merelia

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Nov. 9th

With all our best attempts we tried to leave town today, again. Max's bike has issues, carburation issues. By late on the afternoon all was well. The guys at Euro Bike did an awesome job tracing down the problems and fixing them.


Me, Jim and Max with the Euro Bike staff

Back to our home away from home. Gina greets us at the door with "if you were meant to leave today you would have. You were meant to be here tonight. Now come in".
Many thanks to Shasheen for this awesome connection.
Thank you Lola and Gina for your wonderful hospitality.
Tomorrow on the road early. Tonight thinking of the full moon.
ILUB

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Location:Guadalajara

Nov. 8th

I can't speak for other bike shops in Mexico, but the guys at Euro Bike are into clean as Armondo the manager says the bike should look like new when it leaves this shop.


My KLR stripped down and clean

Went to the central market this afternoon, great food, people selling everything from poly tarps to leather jackets.
Back to Euro Bike. My bike is done and being given a final wash and wax. When I mention to Victor, my mechanic, that Jim will be jealous of my clean bike he just smiles. I start taking to Jim when we turn around Victor has started washing Jim's bike. Max's bike is taking longer than they thought so we're heading back to Lalo's and Gina's, hoping to hit the road tomorrow.
Back at Lalo's and Gina's for another wonderful home cooked meal. We are getting spoiled here.



Final wash and wax before Victor attacked Jim's bike

Location:Guadalajara

Nov 7th

Nov. 7th
Off early to Euro Bike, a KTM and Kawasaki dealer, with the help of our host Lalo and Gina we discuss with the mechanics our needs, each bike gets an assigned mechanic.


Max and Gina talk KTM needs

Next off for a trip to an outlaying part of Guadalajara. Walking to their favorite lunch restaurant we stop at a very high end home decorating shop. Beautiful hand carved tables and chairs, wrought iron sculptures, and amazing chandeliers.
Lunch was a delight. Open patio seating, excellent food, and tasty Margaritas. After we paid the bill our waiter announced since we were such nice people the management would like to buy us another round of Margaritas, yeah! Then they brought a special Marg. made with Tamrindo, for us to sample, very dangerous, delicious.
Bike work still underway. One thing here these guys are into clean, after stripping my bike to work on it, they give it a complete wash down. I can almost see my bike smile.
Back at Lalo's and Gina's we are treated to a great dinner. Our host is taking such great care of us we may move in.
IFMUL

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Location:Guadalajara

Nov 7-9th

Nov. 7th
Off early to Euro Bike, a KTM and Kawasaki dealer, with the help of our host Lalo and Gina we discuss with the mechanics our needs, each bike gets an assigned mechanic.


Max and Gina talk KTM needs

Next off for a trip to an outlaying part of Guadalajara. Walking to their favorite lunch restaurant we stop at a very high end home decorating shop. Beautiful hand carved tables and chairs, wrought iron sculptures, and amazing chandeliers.
Lunch was a delight. Open patio seating, excellent food, and tasty Margaritas. After we paid the bill our waiter announced since we were such nice people the management would like to buy us another round of Margaritas, yeah! Then they brought a special Marg. made with Tamrindo, for us to sample, very dangerous, delicious.
Bike work still underway. One thing here these guys are into clean, after stripping my bike to work on it, they give it a complete wash down. I can almost see my bike smile.
Back at Lalo's and Gina's we are treated to a great dinner. Our host is taking such great care of us we may move in.
IFMUL

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Location:Guadalajara

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Nov 2 through the 6th

Nov 2nd
Off the ferry, temp near 100F, fuel up and we are off to Durango Mex.
Now it gets a little spooky. Today is the "Day of the Dead" in Mexico and the road we are riding is called the Devils Backbone, hmmm


All goes well. Great road lots of twist and turns, beautiful views and cool as in 56F degrees cool. Ahhhhhhhh. Knikki commented we rode like the devil had our tails hmmmmmmm. I never looked behind me.....hmmmmmm

Nov 3rd
Lay over day in Durango. Beautiful old cathedrals, neat old narrow streets, friendly people. Laundry, cab tour of town, grocery shopping.
Stayed at a cool old hotel, the Roma. Becoming somewhat dependent


on wifi which everyone seems to have.

Nov 4th
Rode from Durango to Jerez today. Beautiful vistas, very SW Colorado like. Cowboy and horse country. Still going to twisty road school.
Nice dinner tonight complete with a mariachi band composed of a father and his two sons.

Nov 5th
Beautiful ride again today, Jerez to Guadalajara. Ranch land, healthy horses and cattle, deep canyons and high mesa's
My riding skills are improving, feeling more comfortable on the twisty roads. Biggest challenges now come when we are riding in town's with traffic and narrow streets. Learning the throttle is my friend.





Nov 6th
Shopping at the Grande Plaza, a huge mall, everything from Sears to an IStore, Costco, Sam's Club and Walmart across the street. Picked up some basic's. Going to stay at some friends of Shaseen's house tonight outside of town. Tomorrow all the bikes are going to the dealers. Max's KLR has carburetor issues, we think, Jim's in for tire change knobbies to road and my KLR gets an oil change, air filter service and a general check up.


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Location:Guadala

Friday, November 4, 2011

Oct 21 to Nov 1st

Oct 21
Back to Vallejo to drop Knikki off and say goodbye for awhile. One last hug, one last kiss, I'm on my way with a tear in my eye
Met up with Jim and Max in Oakland the trip has begun. Heading on to the freeway I laugh as I watch Max pull a wheelie onto the on ramp.
Yeah, not much freeway traffic. Met Rick, a friend of Jim's and our host for the evening at Alice's Restaurant, a gathering place for motorcycle riders of all descriptions. Nice two lane twisty road going to and coming. I'm figuring something's out riding wise. I laugh as we get close to Rick's house, we drive by the beach where Knikki, Clover and I played the day before.
Steak dinner with Rick an Uncle Bob, a retired ski bum from the Sierras. Great food and conversations

Oct 22
Quick ride from Rick's to San Luis Obispo down 101. Loving the California coast. Rick rides part way with us. He lead us on a short detour on the dirt and through some red woods. Pretty darn neat.

Oct 23
Another quick freeway ride San Luis Obispo to Shasheen Shah's in Encinitas, CA. I met Shasheen year's ago at a tele clinic in Santa Fe. NM, an amazing person and a true friend
An evening beach walk and as usual, Shasheen's over the top hospitality.



Jim Max and Shasheen
Oct 24
Tires changed over to knobbies for off road. Sent a package of warm weather clothes home to Skagway.
After dinner Isabella and Erica come over to Shasheen's, Isabella's birthday celebration. Beer wine and vodka flowed. Erica gave Max and Jim massages, no happy ending. I chatted with Isabella about dancing then exited to the porch to catch a phone call from Knikki. Party went on for awhile I think, I crashed early.

Oct 25
Off and over the boarder last call to Knikki for awhile.
At boarder female boarder inspectors check out our bikes and Max.
Night in Ensenada, going for dinner a young cute "working girl"of some sort seems to like Max. Max got hit on literally. Emails to Knikki
Reply's from my lover in the am

Oct 26
Got our tourist visa's, still no definitive answer on the necessary paper work for the bikes.
Out of town with some minor confusion then down Mexico Highway 3.


Beautiful road with little traffic, scenery much like New Mexico.
Turned off 3 heading up to "Mike's Sky Ranch". 22 miles of killer beach sand mixed with not so killer beach sand pushed my skill level up a notch or two. At this time it's only my mountain biking skills that's keeping me and my bike up right.



At Mike's; a great oasis with an interesting history. Rooms are reminiscent of old ski lodge rooms, bikes get parked by the pool, room rate includes dinner and breakfast.
Tired from the off road ride in bed by 8:30, will be asleep soon.

Oct 27
Rest day: morning hike, studying my spanish, bike maintenance, yoga and some chill time at Mike's



Oct 28
Back to the killer beach sand. Interestingly enough the road was much shorter going out than coming in. Fewer lay downs also.
Rode pavement most of the way to Gonzagas Bay. Euro snacks for lunch, smoked oysters appeared from my panniers. Beers at a beach side bar and restaurant.
Going to look for a beach camp.

Oct 29
Camped out on the beach, because we managed to get all three bikes stuck in the even deeper killer beach sand, however, stars out all night, early morning swim.


Baja sunrise
Everyone unstuck and on the road to Coco's corner. Coco and his corner are worth a google. I immediately impressed him by missing my kickstand and as he said I kissed the Mexican soil.


Jimi and Coco at the corner
20 some miles of rough dirt, I finally manage to get out of 2nd gear, yeah.
San Ignacio, Rice and Beans restaurant and hotel our host Riccardo, a great host, very cool beliefs about honesty and fairness.
Met a couple from Port Townsend on their way down the Baja to kite board for the winter, she used to work for Bart Henderson over in Haines doing river trips, about 20 years ago she said.

Oct30
Rode though old San Ignacio to the old square and mission church, pretty cool. Many palm trees, oasis like.
Max's bike stops in Mulege for no apparent reason. Perfect place. Bunch of adventure riders from all over including two German bicyclist riding to Argentina. All the bikes parked in the hotel court yard complete with a tile floor. Beer is flowing, like a bunch yachtsmen.


Made a date for next Halloween with my lover, very cool, very cool.
Met a girl from Whitehorse working for NOLS down here. Will check out there base of opes tomorrow.
Max's bike.....clogged air filter we believe as of now?
12 bikes in the Hotel Hacienda court yard for the evening, beer store 1/2 a block away.

Oct. 31
Out of Mulege around 11:00, not bad for an 8:30 start. Riders making coffee in the court yard. Ed from Pueblo CO, Jeff from Madison WI, John from Chicago may move to Durango, Danny a KLR rider, Anthony from ...
And a host of other riders.
Stopped in at the NOLS base, the 2nd one ever established. Kate and George from Whitehorse work there, all though not there, Marin, Kate's daughter and Meridith from Whitehorse and the Brew Co gave us a tour. Pretty impressive base.
Beautiful coast, Bahia Conception was incredible. A number of sailboats anchored up in various bays, looked pretty perfect to me.
Long fast hot ride to La Paz. Here for the night, bike's parted in the lobby as is the Mexican tradition it appears.


Found out from the man at the front desk that tonight is the night in Mexico they honor all the children that have died, only the children he said, tomorrow we honor all dead people, tonight only children. I could see and feel those many small souls roaming about with no home, no family, waiting...
Lot's of kids on the streets in costumes getting candy and such at restaurants and stores, Halloween night in La Paz.
Tomorrow import visa's, and perhaps the ferry to the mainland.
Finally got to real time chat with my beautiful lover Knikki, it's been too long.
And got the blog problem fixed, yeah!

Nov 1st
Walked to the ferry office to find out we take care of tickets and import visa's for the bikes at the ferry terminal as well as clear customs. One stop shopping we hope.
Breakfast at La Fonda, the Huevos Ranchero's were great.
Packed up and off to the terminal. The process was painless. Jimi got us there early, we breezed through everything. By the time we finished the lines were out the door.
Now waiting to load the bikes on the ferry to the Matazalan. Overnight boat trip with no beer.... Hmmmmm. Tomorrow off the boat at 8:00am then ride to Durango.
Interesting how after one email chat I miss staying connected to Knikki.
Ran into a brunch of motorcycle riders from LA heading to Argentina also. A couple were from Argentina originally. Also Mike from Durango, CO. Steve from Toronto and Christian from Seattle all getting on the boat for various adventures. Good news they have beer on board.
Getting to the seating salon we noticed smoke coming out one of the air vents, so much for the air conditioning.
Long night so so sleeping. Beautiful sunrise smooth crossing



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