Sunday, April 15, 2012

March 17th to March 18th Ushuaia

March 17th
On the road drained and unenthused from "the tire day".
Tomorrow I cross the Straits of Magellan another milestone.
Arriving in Punta Arena I find the ferry terminal with little problem, now to find a back up tube and a place to stay
When adventure riders have any bike problems in or near Punta Arena they go to the famous Carlos's Shop, so my search is on. I find the shop with little problem, but no Carlos. While riding around looking for a place to stay I go down in the mud on a side street. A local truck driver helps me pick the bike up. When I go to drive away I find I've thrown my chain, crap. He immediately offers to help. I assure him it's ok and that I have tools to take care of it. And such are the people down here always willing, if not insistent on helping. I move to the side of the street, local kids gather. It doesn't take long to reset the chain, a couple of conversations with the locals about the bike and trip and I'm on my way.
Found a place to stay near Carlos' moto shop and a supermercado. I head over to the shop, no one in sight, I'm bummed at the thought of riding without a back up tube. Just then the shop door opens, Carlos sticks his head out and motions me in. He's a great guy who loves his work and helping people out. It turns out he doesn't open the shop every day any more because he's helping the family out on their estancia, (an estancia as explained to me is a ranch only much larger) the only reason he even looked outside was he heard my bike, I've lucked out. No tire but he has a used but solid 18" tube. Yeah! At least now I have a back up tube.
Ferry terminal located, place to stay for the night and a back up tube I finally relax ready for tomorrow's crossing.

March 18th
Punta Arena to Ushuaia, crossing The Straits of Magellan.
I'm up anxious to be to the ferry early only to find my bike is totally parked in. Frustrated I wake my host, he stumbles out of his room telling me to relax I have plenty of time. He puts the water on for coffee, lays out some rolls and goes out to move the cars that have me parked in. There was no way he would let me leave without breakfast.


Great ferry operation, very professional ticket office, loading was easy and organized, plenty of tie downs, perfect. The ferry was pretty cool a combination double ended landing craft and passenger vessel. I had a delightful relaxing nap on board.





I met a Swiss couple biking from Lima to Ushuaia. I really admire the way they had their bikes set up. Whatever they needed was close at hand.


Gravel open road from Porvenir to the border, pretty easy riding, lot's of great views, I'm getting back into the ride. I passed 6 more bicyclist traveling in the wind, loaded up, all heading south. Thinking about my adventure compared to theirs, I admire them, what an awesome way to see the world, pretty darn cool.
At the border office I find that when I entered into Chile I apparently didn't get a form I needed to exit my bike on this end. The official behind the desk looks concerned and asks several times for the form I should have. He then asks where I'd been in Chile. I dig out a map and show my route. Torres del Paine, Puerto Natales, Punta Arena, he says "ok, no problem" and exits me and my bike. So so very different from central America.
Smiling, loving life, I go outside just in time to see the wind blow my bike over. Many officials appear to help me stand the bike up and direct me to a more sheltered place. The wind howls here.
Easy import into Argentina and on the pavement with the now ever present cross wind.


I run into Marco at the gas station in Rio Grande. He's the rider who gave me his extra fuel so I could ride into El Chalten a couple of weeks ago. We laugh about how gas stations are the one place adventure riders always meet. I'm thinking I should look for a place to camp. He says "push on, two hours and you're there". It's almost unbelievable two hours to Ushuaia. I'm on my way.
Beautiful ride by the ocean, lots of traffic being the weekend. The fact that there was a televised grand prix race that morning definitely has affected their driving, they are fascinated by drafting it appears. I leave the coast and head into the mountains.
Climbing, heated jacket liner on medium, grip warmers on and I'm still cold. The temp is 37F on the pass with light rain. Brrrrrrrr.


And so it comes to pass.
March 18th at 8:00pm after 14,945.8 miles, 24,387 K's, I arrive in Ushuaia the fabled end of the road south.
I pause to take the photo thinking there should be three of us here for this moment. The journey has ended differently from what any of us would have projected.
The temp is 40F with light rain. Cold tired and hungry I literally stumble onto the La Posta Hostel and a warm bed.
This is it, I'm here.
Surprisingly alone.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Punta Arena to Ushuaia

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

March 9th and 10th

March 9th
Knikki's birthday!
Neat ride out of El Chalten. Open road no traffic.


Lunch stop on the side of the road reminded me of the 4 corners area of New Mexico.
Arrive at the Lonely Planet recommended camp ground. Easy to find, easy check in, Wifi, but cigarette butts littering every camp site, and then the campground dog shows up to mark my tent as his territory. Glad I had the rain fly up.
Ok, it was crap, the worst camping situation I've had on the entire trip. Noisy both in and around the campground all night and early morning long. AAAARRGGGGGG!

March 10th
After a camp breakfast I head out to see the Moreno Glacier. I'm curious more than interested as to what their "must see" glacier will be like. Well it was pretty cool.


I stopped after the park entrance to get some pictures of the glacier and glacial lake.
The whole park is well laid out with photo pull outs and picnic areas along the road to the glacier.
Once you get close to the glacier you're directed to a parking lot where free shuttles take you to the viewing area. From the number of cars and tour busses in the lot I imagine viewing the glacier will be a challenge.


Wrong, they have this amazing cat walk trail that goes in a huge loop. It has large photo areas off it as it runs parallel to the face of the glacier. I walked the loop and never felt the crowds. I was impressed, they have this one figured out.





After the glacier I took a side road to grab some roadside euro snacks for lunch. Just me and a bunch of sheep on the road.



Back to the black hole camp ground. The one thing Lonely Planet did nail was clean showers with lots of hot water.
I met up with Jim and Max for dinner at there hostel and gave them my tourist notes on the Glacier and El Chalten. I think they will both enjoy El Chalten.
Jim is looking pretty good and seems to be managing. I know Max is a huge help right now. We begin to rough figure our next rendezvous in Buenos Aires.

March 11th
Rain showers last night. Camp breakfast and on the road to Torres del Paine











- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:El Calafate.

Sunday, March 25, 2012

March 4th thru March 5th

March 4th
Riding from Gobenor Georges to Tres Lagos and Ruta 40 we are advised to take a longer but better route, more pavement and no pot holes we are told. The pavement is great, little to no traffic then it ends and we make a right turn towards Tres Lagos and Ruta 40.
It tough riding for me, the gravel is loose except the twin track in the center of the road but then that will disappear into all loose gravel. It takes all my concentration, even with that I have a minor rodeo into the ditch, up the side bank, back to the ditch were I stop to collect myself. Before I'd ride at 40, 45 now 30, 35 still with full concentration. This isn't that much fun.
I come around a gentle bend in the road and see a black box in the middle of the road. At first I don't believe it's one of Jim's panniers, then I see his bike on it's side on the left side of the road, I don't see Jim at all. Rolling up I see him laying by the bottom side of his bike not moving. Shit!
I get over to him, he moves a little, he tells me it's his ribs and shoulder, he's hurt badly. I get his helmet off and do what I can to get him comfortable.
I flag down the first approaching truck.
Without even learning the guy's name we get Jim and all his gear into the truck. We roll Jim's bike out of site. The guy shows me on the map where the nearest hospital is and says that's where we should take Jim, about a two hour drive. I can't follow, I don't have enough gas and after seeing all this I'll be riding too slow plus I'm shook up, so we agree to meet at the police station in Tres Lagos at 11:00.


I watch the truck leave and sit for a long time. I've got 30+ miles to ride in shit gravel and my friend is headed the other way to the hospital, crap. I mount up and ride slowly to Tres Lagos, solo. The trip has just taken a major turn.
I ride thru the town of about 200 and find a small Hotel the "Huentru Niyue Hostel"
Checking in I ask the owner, Oscar, for help, trying explaining what has happened. My limited Spanish is useless. His wife gets enough of it to call the hospital in Piedrabuena. She comes back saying the motorcycle rider that was hurt is OK and that the man who brought him in will be back to Tres Lagos by 11:00.
I'm trying to ask Oscar if he knows of anyone who can help me retrieve Jim's bike tomorrow and getting no where. Then I remember the IPad and the translation program, yeah. Between the IPad, Oscar and I, he will help me find someone tomorrow.
At 11:00 Jim's savior finds me, amazingly enough, he walks into the hotel as I'm walking out to try to find him, his name is Carlos.
Carlos says we can go get the bike now. It turns out Carlos is running the road construction job on the road we were on. We go to the company yard, 4 other guys show up, they grab a big flat bed and off into the night we go.
We find the bike no problem, load it up and are back in town by 2:30 in the morning with the bike unloaded at the hotel. I'm toast.
I begin contacting Max and Jim's wife Charlotte, filling them in as I could.


March 5th
I survey the BMW, a loose banjo bolt for the hydraulic line to the clutch is the only problem. I tighten up the bolt now all it needs is fluid and it's good to go.
I coordinate emails with Jim, Max and Charlotte.
I go to visit Carlos at his office, Unforgettable afternoon sitting with him and another Carlos, coffee, home made empanates, conversations, the best we could manage, laughter, there in an Atco like trailer office, wind rocking it. We talk about the wreck, Carlos says "I helped Jim, next time when I need help someone will help me," I really like this guy.
O yes, the wind blows here all the time according to both Carlos's only harder in their winter and the Internet sucks again according to both Carlos's


Carlos and Juan



I find the restaurant in town, and the bakery that opens at 9 with real coffee.
Jim and I connect, he's feeling better. Carlos has picture of him in the hospital giving a thumbs up. I'm unwinding.
Now what?

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Gobenor Georges to Tres Lagos

Feb 27th through March 3rd

Monday Feb 28th
Miracles occur, though today in a holiday in Argentina the bike shop is open and much to the relief of Jim's hearing they have the material I need to repack my muffler.


Max try's to get them to tear into the bike. At first they were reluctant saying it would be at least two week before they could get to it. By the afternoon they had softened and agreed to look at it tomorrow.
We moved out of the hot water only breakfast Hostel into a nicer place. Cover parking, good for my muffler job, Internet, good for my Knikki fixes, and a bar good for the stress relief of all.
I can't imagine the stress on Max and Jim every time the KTM hiccups. As of today we don't know anything about what's wrong with the bike although Jim and I expect it's serious. We wait, wonder what will show up this time...

Feb 29th
Happy leap day everyone. Max's bike, the fabled KTM, has passed on to a better place, hopefully to be rebuilt and sold to rider who will love her.
Rod bearing gave out as well as the wrist pin bushings. Rebuilding will take time and money. Jim and Max negotiate a deal with the shop. Good bye KTM, I can't say I'll miss you all that much.



March 2
The deal is done Jim has the cash in his pocket we roll at 2:00.
Stopping for gas we chat with a Canadian from VC island, he recommends our route to the petrified tree park. Also no problems with gas. Seems like he spends his winters down here riding.
Wicked cross winds from the west, "roaring 40's"?
Terrain is very western Kansas, eastern Colorado like very cool
Camping tonight is at La Paloma, the dove, 25k's of gravel, 50k's to the park
What a great place. No one there. A. According to the Lonely Planet it's actually a sheep ranch that has a camp ground. I can not explain why but this place is cool, eating and cooking house with a fireplace and coolest wall hanging celebrating 83 years of ..............


Dinner is chicken rice peanuts with red chills.......hmmm and cheese and red and a bomber of amber lager, Patagonia. Excellent.
The complete farm house menagerie, dog, cat, roster
Hot water, shower, gas stove.
Wake in the middle of the night see two bright stars, yes, the pointers stars to the Southern Cross. And there it is, yes for the first time perfectly outside the opening of my tent. We're here!
Rooster wakes us well before dawn thinking it's 1:00 at Knikki's house.in the middle of the night the cat howls, the dog barks, and the rooster crows.



March 3rd
La Paloma to Gobenor Georges and Hotel Leon
Hot press coffee on a sand stone bench watching the day unfold, almost perfect....where is that woman?
Great stop at the petrified Forrest.


Yes, they are that big, huge
According to the brochure, the largest petrified trees in the world. Looks like they get three maybe four people to the park a day.
More gravel riding, crap.
I get a rolling dismount in, got caught in a rut, front wheel went sideways took it on my shoulder and helmet, I love my protective gear.
Long ass day on the gravel to Gobenor Georges, my shoulder is screaming basic vibration issue plus throttle wrist.


No traffic on the road except a grader, a pickup and us.
Tons of Guancos, a few Rhea's and wild horses and lots of gravel,crap.
Great place in Gobenor, Hotel Leon
Two 222's, half a bottle of red, Bree cheese and sausage and now dinner.
A fixed menu of meat, lamb, various sausages including blood, mutton, Chicoron, pork and beef and a salad, a lot of meat and some salad.
Nice place, and the usual nice people helping us plan our route.

Location:Comodoro Rivadavia to Gobenor Georges

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Feb 23 through the 26th

Feb 23rd
We leave Chaiten with gas tanks full heading to La Junta, Chile. Once there we'll gas up and get a local update on fuel and the political unrest south of us.





We stop for a lunch break along the way, while talking to a family on vacation we find out there is no gas in La Junta, at all.


With no gas in La Junta, and protesters keeping the road closed further south, we back track to Esquel, Argentina.
Continuing to see long lines of cars at the filling stations in Argentina we fill up every chance we get.
While looking for a room in Esquel we meet up with Greg from Toronto riding a big dual sport Honda not available in the US. He got stuck in southern Chile with a number of other people due to the unrest and had to take the ferry out.
Being a hard core republican he had no sympathy for the protesters demands, but did say they were polite but firm in their dealings with him.


We stay at kind of a rat nest Hostel, you know, just clean enough but they have secure bike parking, Internet and we were the only one staying there other than the manager Oscar

Feb 24th Friday.
Esquel AR
Greg headed out to continue his adventure.
Max is trying to figure out how to sell his bike before we leave Argentina. He's getting some good responses to his ads.
Jim and I work on bike shipping and airline tickets for the trip home. Today it seems suddenly close to the end of the trip yet we still have 7 weeks to go.

I get a email from BOA telling me they've changed my acct number, crap!
As I know this has happen to most of you I won't list all the hassles involved but add to this it will be impossible to get my replacement card till Knikki actually brings it down when we meet up in Seattle in 7 weeks. Just another challenge on the journey.

Feb 25th Sat
We ride from Esquel to Rio Mayo
Beautiful open county, mountains in the background, scattered rain, nice riding.


We arrive in RioMayo and "get dem ol KTM blues again momma, oh yea"
We stopped at a shop to have the muffler welded up. Then as we are getting ready to leave Max starts the bike and it begins to make some very expensive noises. Very expensive noise requiring professional help.
Of course as with most of the KTM stories there is some humor involved. We roll the bike in to the garage and try to figure our next move when Max turns around and says "oh shit, it's a priest". Sure enough a priest walks in unaware of the perfection of his timing.
Max ask him to bless the bike, I'm thinking last rites. A sign from above.....
The priest obliges us with photo's and takes off.
Jim finds us an awesome place to stay with huge amounts of great food and a great host, most excellent.

Feb 26th Sunday
I clean up my bike, adjust my chain, touch base with my Knikki. Max and Jim find a truck to haul the bike to the next KTM dealer along the way, only 140 miles away. We'll leave at 3:00 heading to the Atlantic Side of Argentina.


We load up the KTM and with some confusion leave town. Great pavement riding. The mighty KLR, my bike, and I struggle to keep up with the convoy, the guy hauling the bike thought we where in a hurry I guess. The scenery is like Utah and the western slope of Colorado but a touch greener.


Comodoro Rivadaria is an oil town trying it's best to be something else. Good to see the grey swells of the Atlantic crashing against the sea wall.
KTM shop seems to be your basic motoshop with one KTM on the floor.
Had hoped to find muffler material for my bike here, doubtful.
A local older couple living next to the shop, Nestor and his wife, adopt us. Our bikes get stored in their down stairs hobby room. Mrs. nestor gives us maps and directions for hotels and a place to eat. Nestor says be very careful in town "peligroso".
We find a hostel with only hot water for cooking privileges and no Internet. We'll research a better place tomorrow.
Oh yes, as today is Sunday and tomorrow is a holiday the bike will not see the shop Tuesday.
Good news or not, local biker says Ushuaia is a two day ride from here. We are that close.
I miss Knikki.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Chaiten, Chile to Comodoro Rivadavia, Argentina

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Feb 20 through the 22nd

Feb 20th
Time for my riding challenges to resume, gravel roads hmmmmmm. I'm learning and will get better as we'll be on them for the next couple of weeks.


Camped at Jorge's fly fishing Hostel in the cow, cow patty pasture.
Such a pull of old ski places where we would stay in northern Wisconsin and the UP when I was a kid.
Cooked dinner on the outdoor wooden truck grease rack, a most excellent smoked salmon pasta with the an accompanying bottle of cheap, but good red wine. Fell asleep looking at the stars.


Cow, cow patty pasture

Breakfast in the Hostel with Jorge, nice little kitchen, warm, eggs, bread, Nescafe coffee. He's a fly fishing bum that made it work, like some mountain and ski bums I know. Great little house, a couple of rooms, a camp ground, boats, fishes everyday and smiles easily.

Feb 21st Chaiten, Chile, 43 degree south
Rain, misty, so, so SE Alaska like


Riding alone today through a large open valley surrounded by glacier capped peaks, Jim and Max ahead. The chase is over now, I ride for myself, we've agreed to discuss the route in the morning, pre determine check in points and ride as we feel, take pictures and truly enjoy where we are.
However the KTM is struggling for control of the trip again. The head set has now developed a problem, feeling like a missing bearing, notching the steering straight ahead.......hmmmmm. And somewhere along the way the end cap of the muffler fell off....... My vote is, ride it till it self destructs and then we'll give it a decent drunken burial.
LMAO recalling after leaving the last KTM shop Max said "I think the KTM Is now at it's best short term reliability" so true, as in "short term."



So much like SE AK

We find a nice little place to stay in Chaiten with a small kitchen. Red wine beer and rain, cozy room with hot water and heat.....yeah. With a kitchen Max cooks up a great breakfast and we have real coffee.

No Internet is perhaps a gift, perhaps it is a chance to collect, evaluate and ponder the meaning of life......he says laughingly. Pondering the power of a relationship for sure. Out touch is different from out of connection. Everyday there are moments when I feel a connection with my lover.


Feb 22nd


Looking down the street at the mountain, Corcovado I feel myself stepping into the movie "180 Degrees South". I can see it's pull.
Eerie and fascinating the town of Chaiten was evacuated in 2008 during the eruption of a nearby volcano. In the end 50 people returned leaving some buildings deserted while others show every sign of life. The town is now developing into a tourist destination complete with cruise ships dropping passengers off to tour the volcano.
Watching a cruising sail boat come in....ah cruising this archipelago would be fantastic, awesome.


We decide to do a tour today and head out to hike the local volcano.
First trail food at the market then the bank, with a no Visa ATM, crap, then a line at the gas station so we skip it. It's not far so we go.


Somewhere along the way Jim and Max pick up two girls hitch hiking the way we are going. They say they know where the trail is which will be helpful. We ride till I'm on reserve and Jim and Max are low on fuel and no trail head. Figuring these girls have no idea where the trail is and just wanted a ride further down the road we drop them off and head back towards town. We see a sign for a ranger station and head in.


We talk to Arron, the ranger there, he tells us where the trail is, back closer to town. We feel better when he tells there's no sign and unless you know where the trail is you'll miss it. As we did.


We run into two Belgians touring on bicycles, that we had talked to in Chaiten earlier, so cool. We talked about Belgian beers and invited them to Alaska for there next trip. Hope they make it. Great energy.
Back towards town again we find the trail. Jim decides to keep going to town, Max and I hit the trail.
On the hike up we run into a local couple. Talking about the town mentions other than tourism the only industry is salmon framing much to his disgust.......yeah!


The blow out area of the volcano


Steam from the top of the volcano.

Max and I have a good hike up to the volcano, nice to stretch my legs out.
I ran out of gas just as I rolled to a stop at trail head so we put our spare liter of fuel in the tank then tip the bike to the left to move a little more fuel to the pickup side of the tank. Heading back to town I'm unsure how far I will make it. Using every fuel saving tactic I could recall I make it just past the first round about entering town then push my bike a block to the hotel. So close.
More KTM tails. This time from a Brazilian Adventure rider we met at our hotel. "Yes, I had a KTM 990 that I really liked but then it began to give me problems so I got rid of it". "Really?"
Dinner at the place next door. Talked to some new friends from Santiago I met outside the Market earlier today (he went to school in Muncie Indiana) about the soccer game on tv. I asked them about our route only to find out that southern Chile is in a state of political unrest. Bridges are closed which means gas trucks are not getting through even if we could. So tonight we reevaluate route and tomorrow get as much gas as we can.



Morning coffee, disconnected from my lover, feeling the space.
Loving my IPad listening to my music, wishing I could hook into the Internet.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Los Alerces National Park, Argentina to Chaiten, Chile

Feb 20 through the

Feb 20th
Time for my riding challenges to resume, gravel roads hmmmmmm. I'm learning and will get better as we'll be on them for the next couple of weeks.


Camped at Jorge's fly fishing Hostel in the cow, cow patty pasture.
Such a pull of old ski places where we would stay in northern Wisconsin and the UP when I was a kid.
Cooked dinner on the outdoor wooden truck grease rack, a most excellent smoked salmon pasta with the an accompanying bottle of cheap, but good red wine. Fell asleep looking at the stars.


Cow, cow patty pasture

Breakfast in the Hostel with Jorge, nice little kitchen, warm, eggs, bread, Nescafe coffee. He's a fly fishing bum that made it work, like some mountain and ski bums I know. Great little house, a couple of rooms, a camp ground, boats, fishes everyday and smiles easily.

Feb 21st Chaiten, Chile, 43 degree south
Rain, misty, so, so SE Alaska like


Riding alone today through a large open valley surrounded by glacier capped peaks, Jim and Max ahead. The chase is over now, I ride for myself, we've agreed to discuss the route in the morning, pre determine check in points and ride as we feel, take pictures and truly enjoy where we are.
However the KTM is struggling for control of the trip again. The head set has now developed a problem, feeling like a missing bearing, notching the steering straight ahead.......hmmmmm. And somewhere along the way the end cap of the muffler fell off....... My vote is, ride it till it self destructs and then we'll give it a decent drunken burial.
LMAO recalling after leaving the last KTM shop Max said "I think the KTM Is now at it's best short term reliability" so true, as in "short term."



So much like SE AK

We find a nice little place to stay in Chaiten with a small kitchen. Red wine beer and rain, cozy room with hot water and heat.....yeah. With a kitchen Max cooks up a great breakfast and we have real coffee.

No Internet is perhaps a gift, perhaps it is a chance to collect, evaluate and ponder the meaning of life......he says laughingly. Pondering the power of a relationship for sure. Out touch is different from out of connection. Everyday there are moments when I feel a connection with my lover.


Feb 22nd


Looking down the street at the mountain, Corcovado I feel myself stepping into the movie "180 Degrees South". I can see it's pull.
Eerie and fascinating the town of Chaiten was evacuated in 2008 during the eruption of a nearby volcano. In the end 50 people returned leaving some buildings deserted while others show every sign of life. The town is now developing into a tourist destination complete with cruise ships dropping passengers off to tour the volcano.
Watching a cruising sail boat come in....ah cruising this archipelago would be fantastic, awesome.


We decide to do a tour today and head out to hike the local volcano.
First trail food at the market then the bank, with a no Visa ATM, crap, then a line at the gas station so we skip it. It's not far so we go.


Somewhere along the way Jim and Max pick up two girls hitch hiking the way we are going. They say they know where the trail is which will be helpful. We ride till I'm on reserve and Jim and Max are low on fuel and no trail head. Figuring these girls have no idea where the trail is and just wanted a ride further down the road we drop them off and head back towards town. We see a sign for a ranger station and head in.


We talk to Arron, the ranger there, he tells us where the trail is, back closer to town. We feel better when he tells there's no sign and unless you know where the trail is you'll miss it. As we did.


We run into two Belgians touring on bicycles, that we had talked to in Chaiten earlier, so cool. We talked about Belgian beers and invited them to Alaska for there next trip. Hope they make it. Great energy.
Back towards town again we find the trail. Jim decides to keep going to town, Max and I hit the trail.
On the hike up we run into a local couple. Talking about the town mentions other than tourism the only industry is salmon framing much to his disgust.......yeah!


The blow out area of the volcano


Steam from the top of the volcano.

Max and I have a good hike up to the volcano, nice to stretch my legs out.
I ran out of gas just as I rolled to a stop at trail head so we put our spare liter of fuel in the tank then tip the bike to the left to move a little more fuel to the pickup side of the tank. Heading back to town I'm unsure how far I will make it. Using every fuel saving tactic I could recall I make it just past the first round about entering town then push my bike a block to the hotel. So close.
More KTM tails. This time from a Brazilian Adventure rider we met at our hotel. "Yes, I had a KTM 990 that I really liked but then it began to give me problems so I got rid of it". "Really?"
Dinner at the place next door. Talked to some new friends from Santiago I met outside the Market earlier today (he went to school in Muncie Indiana) about the soccer game on tv. I asked them about our route only to find out that southern Chile is in a state of political unrest. Bridges are closed which means gas trucks are not getting through even if we could. So tonight we reevaluate route and tomorrow get as much gas as we can.



Morning coffee, disconnected from my lover, feeling the space.
Loving my IPad listening to my music, wishing I could hook into the Internet.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Los Alerces National Park, Argentina to Chaiten, Chile